🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.